Let’s Talk About Sewing Machines

I often get asked which specific machines I use. And while I think it’s not really about any particular model, I want to share some insights on what I believe actually matters when choosing a sewing machine. You won’t find affiliate links here. I'm not trying to sell machines. This is just my personal opinion based on three decades of sewing.

This article is for enthusiasts who are already into sewing and are looking for general advice or want to improve their setup. If you're just getting started, you can ignore everything I say here. The best machine for a beginner is whatever you already have or can borrow from a friend or family member. Just get started and see if you like sewing.

Industrial Sewing Machines

Let’s get this out of the way: no domestic machine, no matter how many times the box says “heavy duty” or how expensive it is, comes anywhere close to an industrial straight stitch machine. Industrial machines run on 500 watts and sew at around 5000 stitches per minute (which is adjustable to the speed you need). Domestic machines usually run on 65 to 90 watts and top out around 1000 stitches per minute.

The power and control of an industrial machine are in a different league. Once you’ve sewn on one, it's really hard to switch back because you never want to miss that precision again. If you sew regularly, work with a variety of materials including denim, and have the space, getting an industrial straight stitch is absolutely worth it, if not a must-have.

If you decide to get one, I recommend going for a new model with a servo motor, sealed lubrication, and reduced oiling. Expect the price to be around $1,000. I also find the automatic thread cutter, auto foot lift, and reverse button near the needle bar very useful on my machine, which likely adds about $800 to the cost. Even with the extra costs, I haven't seen better value for the money.

That said, an industrial straight stitch machine only does exactly that: straight stitching. You’ll still need a domestic machine for zigzag stitches or buttonholes.

Used Domestic Machines

Buying second-hand can be a good option if you know exactly what you're getting. Maybe you’re into vintage machines or know the specific model well. Otherwise, I’d recommend buying from a dealer who offers a warranty. In most cases, avoid buying unknown machines from private sellers unless you can test them and know what to look for. Whatever model it is, it should be at least mid-range from its time.

Mechanical vs. Computerized

Most modern domestic machines are computerized, and that’s not necessarily a bad thing. While there are more parts that could break, a well-built mechanical-only machine usually costs just as much as an industrial one and still won’t come close in performance.

So if you’re buying a domestic machine, you might as well get the extra functions you want, like an automatic needle threader. You don’t need 400 stitch types, but stitch quality matters. If you get the chance, test the machine on zigzag and automatic buttonholes before buying, as this will be the main task when potentially upgrading to an industrial later.

Free Arm

Some domestic machines come with a free arm, which helps with narrow tubes like sleeve hems. I appreciated it on my first machine, but ever since I got my industrial machine, I haven’t missed it. I’ve been able to stitch even pieces that would have been too small for the free arm.

Table Setup and Stability

Larger machines are more stable and give you more space to the left of the foot. That pass-through area makes a big difference. Some domestic machines also come with a table extension, which helps with larger projects.

Overlock Machines (Serger)

A serger is the next important upgrade for a home sewing setup. It trims the fabric edge and gives you a neat, professional-looking seam finish in one step. This is also essential for sewing stretch fabrics like sweaters and t-shirts, as the seam is stretchable.

Unlike with straight stitch machines, I don’t think you need an industrial version here. A good domestic serger is fast, robust, easy to store when not in use, and most importantly, easier to thread.

Coverstitch Machines

Coverstitch machines are mostly used for hemming stretchy garments like t-shirts. They’re nice to have if you often sew t-shirt hems and want a clean, professional-looking finish, but not essential in my opinion. There are workarounds for hemming knits with a twin needle or a combination of serging and using a small, narrow zigzag stitch.

Brands

People can get emotional about their favorite brand. If you already have one that works well for you, stick with it. But if you’re still figuring things out, I’d recommend looking at mid- to higher-range models from Brother, Janome, and Juki. These brands offer a good balance of solid build quality, user experience, and value for the money, in my opinion.

For industrial straight stitch machines, I recommend Juki, but honestly, any industrial machine from a reputable brand will do.

The Ideal Setup

If you have the space and budget, here’s what I recommend:

• An industrial straight stitch machine for all core stitching
• A domestic machine for zigzag and buttonholes
• A serger for finishing seams and sewing knits

If you're thinking about an upgrade, avoid the cheapest machines if possible. They tend to be unreliable and will probably take the joy out of sewing pretty quickly. Expect to spend over $600 for a decent domestic machine. Get it from an actual sewing machine dealer, not from your grocery store, and test it for stitch quality and buttonholes. Look out for a good deal on special occasions or for discontinued or floor models at your local dealer.

Final Thoughts

Sewing is supposed to be enjoyable, not a constant fight with bad tools. A good machine won’t make you a professional sewist overnight, but a bad one will make you want to quit. Invest in a machine that works for what you want to achieve.