Mascultory Sewing Pattern Specifications

January 8, 2025

This article explains key pattern characteristics and the reasons behind their implementation.

Separate PDF Files for Each Size

Each size is provided as a separate PDF file. This approach offers significant advantages over graded nests with just the outlines visible.

Visible Seam Lines and Seam Allowances

All mascultory patterns include both seam lines and seam allowances. This makes it easy to see how much seam allowance needs to be sewn without having to refer back to the instructions.

Including this information also simplifies adjusting the pattern to suit your individual needs, as any modifications should be made to the net pattern on the seam line.

Example: Increasing the Seat Angle to Add Volume

When adjustments are made to the outline of the pattern, the actual seam length will be altered. This will result in inconsistent seam lengths and misalignment.

The correct method is to make adjustments using the seam line as the pivot point. By doing this, the seam line lengths will remain consistent and match properly when sewn.

Internal Lines and Position Markers

Visible internal lines, such as chest, waist, and hip lines, are essential for making precise adjustments across all pattern pieces.

Visible fold lines help to understand the pattern or to make a style changes like altering a cut-on placket into a separate facing.

Pocket and button position markers allow for precise placement. These details can be transferred directly from the pattern onto the fabric, eliminating guesswork.

Single-sized patterns also provide sufficient space to include additional text explaining crucial aspects of the pattern when necessary.

This would result in significant clutter on a graded nest.

Notches

Notches are crucial for aligning the pattern pieces correctly and also for making sure the right pieces will be sewn together. Sleeve caps are a good example.

Front and back can easily be confused if not specifically marked with notches. Armholes and sleeves have at least 6 notches to distribute ease accurately.

Long distances or curved sections without proper notching make sewing more difficult and can result in distorted seams.

Notches are indicated on both seam lines and seam allowances.

Saving Ink, Paper, and Time

In a graded nest, the largest available size determines the total size of the sheet. This means that even for the smallest size, you would need to print the same amount of pages as for the largest size. Having separate sizes allow for less pages, ink and taping depending on your size.